PRIYA SHARMA The Stinking Rose, which labels itself "A
Garlic Restaurant," is located at 55 La Cienega Blvd. Let’s just
say if you like garlic, you’ll like it here.
By David Holmberg
Daily Bruin Contributor
It’s almost impossible to get the stinking garlic from
“The Stinking Rose” restaurant out of your mind ““
or, more accurately, out of your mouth.
It’s not the cold leftovers sitting in the refrigerator
that will remind you of the previous night’s meal, however.
It’s the unshakable taste of garlic coating the taste buds
that refuses to let an already memorable dinner escape the
senses.
The first impression you get upon entering “The Stinking
Rose” is that you’ve just entered some warped,
alternate dimension of Disneyland’s “Pirates of the
Caribbean,” minus the animatronics and plus a few thousand
garlic references.
The ceiling resembles the sky at dusk, with fluffy clouds
peacefully floating about. The walls are painted with replicas of
classical artworks, from Picasso to Dali, except they all have been
influenced by ““ well, you can probably guess from which
favorite herb the artist drew inspiration. The whole dining room
motif and color scheme make for a very relaxed atmosphere in which
you can enjoy the oncoming feast.
RESTAURANT INFORMATION The Stinking
Rose
Address:
55 North La Cienega Blvd
Beverly Hills, CA 90211
Hours: Open daily, 11a.m. – 2a.m.
Phone Numbers: (310) 652-7673
Price Range: $10.50 – 29.95
Ah, and what a feast. Their slogan, “We season our garlic
with food,” should definitely be taken into consideration
before entering the restaurant. The only things that don’t
have garlic in them are the drinks.
“The Stinking Rose” offers a full bar and has an
impressive wine list, with a high of $140 for a bottle of Dom
Perignon champagne. Non-alcoholic smoothies and coffees are also
available, which may mask the taste of garlic for a time, but do
not fear, it will return.
It isn’t possible to eat at the restaurant without
starting off with their infamous Bagna Calda appetizer. The
quintessential garlic overload, it consists of oven-baked focaccia
buns, with a garlic butter topping, and an iron skillet full of an
awe-inducing amount of garlic cloves soaking in olive oil which are
meant to be spread on the bread. The bread is soft and moist, and
would be wonderful even without the garlic, but combined it is
unforgettable.
The cloves are so tender you may just find yourself eating them
plain, forgetting that the bread is even there. This should satisfy
any garlic lover’s needs.
By the time the food arrives, it might not be possible to even
taste the garlic permeating the pastas and seafood. After the Bagna
Calda, your mouth is so completely engulfed in garlic that it seems
to be part of your taste buds; even the water kind of starts to
taste like garlic.
But this is not to say that the entrees are not full of rich
flavors other than garlic. The gnocchi, an Italian potato dumpling,
has a brie sauce, which, besides being touched with those wonderful
cloves, is enriched with pine nuts and asparagus.
Other vegetarian dishes include “neon” ravioli,
lasagna, pesto and various tomato sauce pastas.
For the meat lover there is garlic roasted prime rib, asparagus
chicken, and roasted chicken filled ravioli. Seafood is also a
specialty, from garlic baked salmon to a whole two pounds of
dungeness crab roasted in garlic sauce.
Room for dessert? If you pace yourself well, you might just make
it. Otherwise, the meals themselves are so delicious that, by the
time they’re finished, you may be as well. But if
you’re not too full ““ and you should really try not to
be ““ then it is imperative that you try the garlic ice cream.
The idea sounds a little dismaying, but somehow it works.
The first bite may not win you over, as it baffles the taste
buds, but after the confusion wears off, a strange delight replaces
it.
What is most surprising is that although everything is flavored
with garlic, it’s not overwhelming. The taste is there, but
it’s not repelling; on the contrary, it draws you in. It is
inescapable, and the best way to survive is to just give in and let
the garlic take you away.
Perhaps the only downfall to “The Stinking Rose” is
the prices. Although most of the costs are moderate, it is still
more than most college students can afford to spend for dinner on a
regular basis.
The lowest-priced pasta costs $10.50, while the most expensive
meals, the crab and prime rib, cost $29.95. Nevertheless, the
combination of the comfortable atmosphere and unique dishes make it
worth the price.
Although open late, it is still recommended that you make
reservations to put you ahead of any walk-in customers; it can be
quite busy, especially on the weekends. The staff is very friendly,
and by calling ahead you can cut down on the wait time. The servers
are knowledgeable but not intrusive, providing excellent
descriptions of the food and helpful suggestions but without
interrupting your meal every few minutes to check if everything is
all right.
So, if you crave garlic, head down to “The Stinking
Rose.” If you don’t, there probably wasn’t much
of a chance you would be going to a place known for its garlic
anyway.
And Gilroy, the small California town that professes to be the
garlic capital of America, better watch out, because a little
restaurant at 55 La Cienega Blvd. is making a run for the garlic
crown.