Taco Madness is the fifth annual Los Angeles-styled festival of all things taco. This celebration includes live music, beer garden for the cerveza-inclined, tacos and, of course, the crowning of the winner of this year’s taco bracket. Every year, LA Taco encourages viewers to choose their favorite taco institution among the 32 possible matchups and left standing are the indisputable kings of LA, Mexicali Taco & Co. and Mariscos Jalisco. This amazing gusto-visual feast laid in the nest of Grand Park below the iconic roaring play-fountain set the tone for what was arguably the best food truck roster to date within the city. However, to traverse this scenic LA spot was no cakewalk: nine of LA’s most reputable taco institutions were strung together along a perimeter no longer than 100 yards and it was my job (and pleasure) to recount these eats. The selection ranged from the modernized and often presentation-focused tacos of West LA to the more traditional-styled mainstays that characterize LA’s culinary melting pot. And, however your appetite leaned – even if you’re vegetarian, there was something for everybody to enjoy at Taco Madness.
Mariscos Jalisco
Location: 3040 E. Olympic Blvd
Hours: Mon-Sun 9 a.m.-6 p.m.
To Try: Shrimp Taco
Voted LA’s best taco last year at 2012’s Taco Madness among other local titles, Mariscos has held its reputation as one of the best shrimp tacos in LA. Their brand of tacos owes little lineage to the Ensenada-styled, deep-fried tacos (think Rubio’s) you’ve held so dearly to for this traditional arrangement is in a category of its own. The shrimp taco is deep-fried to produce that familiar hard shell without sacrificing the succulence of the shrimp inside, then, while flat on their sides, slivers of avocado are sliced on and are finished with a generous smother of their special tomato broth. And, mad props to their creator Raul Ortega, what culminated is a taco that has no equal in taste or quality in recent memory. The seasoned meatiness within is complemented with the satisfying crunch of the shell and buttery, subtle cool of the avocado-broth duality. In general it’s a more-than-welcome break from all the meat-intense gorging of the taco diet. There is no wondering in why Mariscos Jalisco consistently reaches top ranks on every taco foodie’s list.
Leo’s Taco Truck
Location: NW corner of Venice and La Brea
Hours: Sun-Thurs 5 p.m.-3 a.m.; Fri-Sat 5 p.m.–4 a.m.
To Try: Al Pastor
One of my favorite taco spots, Leo’s is identified by the image of that taquero deftly carving the gigantic, rotating al pastor spit late into the night. This truck is most famous for its deviation – or lack of, a la “style of the shepherds” – from the popular plancha-grilled rendition available at the most other places. Leo’s taco is made by shaving al pastor, a marinated vertical rotisserie of pork, onto a warm tortilla roll garnished by a juicy bit of pineapple. This specific taco has been the main driver for Leo’s reputation as one of the most popular trucks in LA. I patiently waited in line to pay tribute and was awarded by a complimentary Jarritos. However, it didn’t compensate for what I received moments later. The sliced pastor was replaced by that non-Leo’s brand pastor minus their locally famous garnish! I gradually forfeited the spoiling of my criteria and embraced the unexpected spiciness of the accompanying avocado sauce and the average-strength pastor. Although disappointed, I reserved my judgments because I knew that the only explanation was that the hard-working crew of Leo’s had run out of those classic, signature ingredients due to an overwhelming line and will return to their La Brea corner next week to remind myself of that image of receiving tacos from that culinary swordsman, so awesomely manhandling that tall trompo of pastor and quick flick of pineapple on top.
Mexikosher
Location: 8832 W. Pico Blvd
Hours: Mon-Wed 11 a.m.–11 p.m.; Thurs 11 a.m.–midnight; Fri 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.; Sat 8 p.m.–2 a.m.
To Try: Chorizo Nachos
Mexikosher’s tagline of inarticulate self-dialogue is “Real Mexican kosher/real good/yes REALLY” begs those automatic disapprovals: “what is Mexican kosher?” and “can that even be good?” And although I admit I was just driven by the sign for chorizo nachos, the quirky sign itself motivated me to investigate further. Their chorizo nachos now run the lead in the race for the best nacho combination possible. Evenly spread across, the amorphous conglomerate of toppings easily slid over all nachos providing a respite from those mini-quarantines of disease, the multitude of unclean hands going in and out infecting the platter of chips, usually present in your baseball game snack options. The standout component of the platter was the fierce and bold flavoring of the chorizo that is reserved for homemade, fiesta grill-outs. Every wish you’ve had for how meat to taste has been finally visualized. The kick of every bite was reset by a molcajete-ground guacamole (a creamier variation of the chunkier version I’m accustomed to) plus the standard serving of sour cream. I can only further describe the taste of such calculated arrangement to be pure umami. I concede Mexikosher, “yes REALLY.”
Mexicali Taco & Co.
Location: 702 N. Figueroa St
Hours: Mon-Thurs 11 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri-Sat 11 a.m.–midnight
To Try: Arrachera Cachanilla (Flank Steak) Taco
Mexicali’s name serves as a pun commenting on their origins as much as their cross-cultural vibes. Crowned best taco in LA this year – their second time overall, they are best known for holding their taco roots alive. The uncompromising vision is apparent in the unabashed adornment of molcajetes or the menu for the day: arrachera cachanilla and choritaco. Unfortunately, by the time I had reached the front the choritaco had run out so, I ordered the flank steak instead. My high expectations were met by the most-voted-for taco at this festival. The steak was cut into strips granting a chewier texture thereby allowing the masticator to enjoy the marinade more. The smooth layers guacamole and salsa further contributed to the complex peppery and smoky taste rounding this taco to be in an unseen style of its own. Mexicali, you have definitely earned your crown as this year’s best taco of LA.
Tacos Punta Cabras
Location: 2311 Santa Monica Blvd
Hours: Mon-Sat 11 a.m.–8 p.m.
To Try: Fish Taco
When I asked the tattooed, young server at Tacos Punta Cabras what they were serving that day, he proudly told me without refraining that they serve “your usual Ensenada-styled fish tacos,” and he was right in certain respects – that familiar deep fried fish and cabbage atop. The women behind him were turning masa into tortilla and preparing the dressing on the tacos; their attentiveness to quality was obviously unwavering and what I ate was a clear expression of that commitment. The batter came out light and crispy without being too thick while the fish sustained a fresh and fleshy texture. To counteract the little grease of the fry is a fresh topping of dressed cabbage. And optional dressings included a selection of homemade salsas – one of which I used being very picante. Tacos Punta Cabras make no ordinary fish taco and should be used to punctuate that monotony of those Rubio Fish Taco Tuesdays.
Review by Brandon Choe
