It is often said that the secret to the famous New York City bagel is in the water, but at Jyan Isaac Bread in Santa Monica, it’s the expertise baked into every loaf.
An experienced baker from the critically acclaimed Gjusta in Venice, then-19-year-old Jyan Isaac Horwitz began baking and selling sourdough loaves out of his family’s kitchen. Due to intense demand, Horwitz expanded his business in the fall of 2021 to a former pizza establishment where his bakery still is located today. Since then, the bakery has been best known for its fresh bread and pastries.
The smell of freshly baked bread wafted down the street as I got off the bus and walked past various storefronts leading to the open door. With a diverse menu of pastries, loaves, sandwiches and more, Jyan Isaac Bread offers something for every appetite.
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Though there is no place to sit inside, the ample front and back patio seating make the bakery not only a great place to soak up the sun but to also converse, whether with those you meet as you’re standing in the queue or the people sitting next to you. Conversations flowed easily as customers offered recommendations and shared reactions to the freshly baked pastries.
Looking at the seemingly endless menu, it was difficult to decide what to try and what to save for my inevitable next visit. Ultimately, I chose three items. Each represented one of the bakery’s specialties.
To kick things off was one of their signature pastries: the huckleberry scone. At first sight, the rugged and mountainous texture of the scone seemed to hint that it would be incredibly dense and rich. Instead, each bite combined a soft, crumbly interior with a crisp crust, while the granulated brown sugar sprinkled on top added an extra layer of crunch. The sweetness of the sugar and berries balanced well with the tart undertones and buttery flavor of the bread. Additionally, the scone was light to eat, making it easy to enjoy alongside the other dishes.
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The star of the show was the French onion grilled cheese made on their homemade sourdough. Oozing with caramelized onions, cheese and beef jus, this sandwich tasted like a perfect French onion soup in handheld form. The crunch of the fresh sourdough with the melted cheese and soft onions made for a phenomenal combination of textures revealing a comforting and delicious flavor.
The one downside to the sandwich is that after the first few bites, it devolves into a messy and soupy mix of bread, cheese and onions. But despite the potential need for a fork and knife in its later stages, the sandwich delivers the comforting flavors of the traditional soup in a distinct and delicious way. After all, a French onion soup grilled cheese is inevitably going to have the components of a soup, but the deliciousness of the sandwich makes the messiness forgivable and still enjoyable.
Walking out of the bakery with a marbled rye loaf in hand and the taste of that sandwich still on my mind, it was clear that I needed to return to work my way through more of their vast menu. Thankfully, Jyan Isaac Bread also sells their fresh-baked goods at various farmers markets across LA.
Whether served alone, layered into a sandwich or baked into a pastry, Horwitz’s bread is the sun in a solar system of delicious baked goods and food.
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