3857 Overland Ave.
Culver City, CA 90232
(310) 836-0080
In a way, the self-serve style of Pampas Grill was reminiscent of a school cafeteria line.
If anything, though, the rows of sizzling meat skewers and gourmet self-serve dishes, waiting to be piled on a plate, felt more like a foodie student’s wildest dream of what cafeteria-style food can be. Although the meat spinning above the embers embodied traditional the Brazilian method, it wasn’t the daunting all-you-can-eat endeavor often associated with a churrascaria. By choosing to charge by weight instead, Pampas not only made the meal more budget-friendly, but also encouraged diners to appreciate all of the robust flavors of each dish on the plate.
The first third of the extensive span of dishes were vegetables and salads, which looked delicious but couldn’t merit a large portion of the plate when compared against the rich fragrances coming from the warm dishes. The green beans and balsamic-drenched tomato salad were tender and flavorful, and they added a nice balanced dose of color and texture to a meat-heavy meal.
Next up were the hot dishes. Much has been made of the pão de queijo, cheesy bread made from yuca flour, at Pampas Grill, but on this particular night, they were cold and somewhat lacking in flavor.
The restaurant redeemed itself, though, with the classic pairing of tender garlic rice and black beans, which were seasoned with a perfect blend of spice and basil-like sweetness. The light Brazilian-style collard greens, cooked in a subtle garlic and olive oil sauce, would later provide a much-needed respite from the heaviness of the meat. These “side” dishes could easily have satisfied as a meal in and of themselves, particularly with perfectly sweet fried plantains for dessert – offering vegetarians a rare opportunity to truly enjoy the flavors of barbecue.
Approaching the beckoning array of meats could easily have been intimidating, if not for the helpful and supremely friendly service provided by the employees. The meat is sliced to order, so each person receives precisely the combination they desire – important when the selections range from sirloin cap to bacon-wrapped chicken. Both of the beef dishes we tried, the sirloin and the garlic beef, were lacking in flavor and rather tough, as if they had spent too much time sitting over the fire.
The chicken dishes, however, were exceptional. The spicy chicken was fall-off-the-bone tender, with just the right amount of kick, while the bacon-wrapped chicken had a savory saltiness that wasn’t at all overpowering. Plus, as the attentive host noted when he visited our table to check in, the food’s customizability ensures a more perfectly satisfying plate with each return visit.
Story by: Liz Schneider
The Bottom Line: Atmosphere: 4/5, Service: 5/5, Food: 4/5
