With wood paneled walls lined with pictures of movie stars, red leather booths and Hollywood history, Burbank’s Smoke House Restaurant has been a Los Angeles institution for 80 years – and for good reason.
Serving their first diners in 1946, Smoke House started as a small 46-seat restaurant and has since grown to a sprawling 500-seat establishment known as a Hollywood hub with a timeless ambiance, food and history. As I decided to cap off the summer edition of “Worth the Fare” and begin the busy move-in season, Smoke House stood out as a destination to visit with family and friends to experience the glitz and glamour of Tinseltown. Granted, the trip to Burbank was a haul – especially in rush hour traffic – but during an exciting time of the school year when I was reuniting with friends and saying goodbye to family, Smoke House made the trip all worth it.
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Surrounded by dozens of studio equipment stores, film labs and the Walt Disney and Warner Brothers studios, Smoke House quickly became a gathering place for stars and crews after long days on set in the late 1940s. With the iconic Warner Brothers water tower hanging overhead outside, I wondered if I’d catch Noah Wyle and the cast of “The Pitt” on their post-work dinner.
Sitting down in the corner booth, it felt as though I was transported back to Hollywood’s golden era. The walls were decorated with Judy Garland, Bing Crosby, Robert Redford and countless other stars signaling Smoke House’s status as Hollywood’s unofficial hall of fame with generations of A-listers looking down on diners.
While the menu is expansive, I was made aware that there were two essentials that I could not leave without trying – “The World’s Greatest Garlic Bread” and the Smoke House prime rib. Following the waitress’ recommendations, we also ordered an appetizer of fried calamari for the table.
Once the order was placed, I couldn’t help but be skeptical that “The World’s Greatest Garlic Bread” could possibly live up to its bold name. I was shouldn’t have been. A basket of warm bread encrusted in cheese landed at the table. One bite and my doubts melted away. The savory sharpness of the cheese blended with the garlic and soft bread so effortlessly that I questioned why I hadn’t thought of it myself. At that point, I would’ve been happy with just the delicious cheesy garlic bread, but it was only the beginning.
The calamari was lightly fried in a way that retained its crunch without feeling like a mouthful of bread or turning soggy. The seasoning was subtle but effective, the side sauces of marinara and spicy chipotle complemented it perfectly while also adding a bit of variety. Still, nothing beats a squeeze of fresh lemon on some calamari. With such a broad menu, though, I’m not sure the calamari would make my order again on my next visit.
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While I continued to soak in the sights and sounds of the famous Smoke House, the unmistakable smell of steak wafted across the dining room toward our corner booth. The prime rib arrived with a side car of au jus and a generous side of sauteed mushrooms. The knife sliced into the hefty cut like butter and the au jus drizzled over the meat, bringing a salty richness that enhanced the flavor of the prime rib tenfold. Each bite was not only an explosion of flavor but also brought a grin to my face as I hoped the meal wouldn’t end.
I often think that if a steak is excellent, then it doesn’t need sauce, but the complexity of the au jus proved me wrong. Its richness did not overshadow the meat. Instead, it added a twist that wowed me.
The mix of pepper, red wine reduction and the delicious combination with the au jus and mushrooms would warrant multiple return visits. The mushrooms were tender and packed with a savory earthiness that complimented the prime rib. I couldn’t help but feel like I was in an episode of “Mad Men” eating a timeless staple in the same place where Frank Sinatra dined.
It would be an exaggeration to say Smoke House is innovative or experimental, but what it does excel at is providing classic dishes that still stand the test of time, similar to how the restaurant itself has endured over countless decades.
Whether it’s after a tour of the Warner Brothers lot, a long day of moving in with the help of your parents and siblings or celebrating seeing your friends again after a long summer apart, Smoke House has it all – kind staff, amazing food and a rich history that transports you to the golden age of LA.
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